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Advice on funds in Myanmar from the Loney Planet. |
Myanmar? Burma? Who really knows. There is a lot of history behind this and officially the country is the Union of Myanmar. Lonely planet claims the people to be Burmese and the country Myanmar. Locals are a mixed bag, depending on who and where. Often it is still referred to it as Burma. Then another guy told Spike the way to go was Myanmar. I guess it is a little like Saigon/HCMC in Vietnam, they use both. But one if more accepted but the locals and one by the government. A little different though as you hear the word Myanmar spoken by locals almost never and you do sometimes hear Ho Chi Minh used by Vietnamese. Anyway, I think you get the idea.
It was all easy enough at the airport in Yagon. People spoke English, signs were in English, and the process was all nice and easy. Before you know it we were in a van on our way into central Yangon. Finding accommodation wasn’t too bad, as we just lonely planted it (there is not extensive options where you can just walk the streets like elsewhere in SEA) although it was significantly more expensive than I had anticipated for basic facilities (and the standard Burmese hotel /hostel included breakfast).
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Money money money |
First things first, we needed to change some of our US currency for some local (Kyat). Hotels, tours and transport are all paid for in USD (which must be in perfect condition, no marks or wrinkles) and food, taxis etc are generally Kyat. We were recommended a hotel to go and change it at, and after fighting of hawkers we emerged with piles and piles of notes for our $200US.
Lunch was a while ago but we found a place with an English menu (yay! There wasn’t a lot of food around where we were staying). It was a pretty decent (tasting, not setting!) Chinese place. There is a lot of Chinese food in Burma due to the location of the country and the influence. We tried to order water to stifle the dehydration due to the heat but ended up with our first taste of the local brew. Myanmar lager.
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Who would have thought! |
And could you believe it we were walking home and I spotted some cheap shirts on the side of the road. Nothing exciting huh, we are in Asia of course. But low and behold what did I see next but a Canterbury New Zealand All Blacks shirt! Genuine, faded (second hand) shirt. For only 500 Kyat (1NZD) there was no question if we would buy it or not. I think some people on the street thought we were insane with the excitement we had over this shirt. It turns out to be slightly too big for Spike, but damn, what a story behind it now.
There is poverty here, like in all of Asia, but worse. It is always hard when children follow you asking for money. Always. Like one of the guys at the hostel who was has been to Indian said, you just become harden to it. It is a kind of sad that you do, but you can’t help everyone.
They spit the red stuff from chewing a lot here (I have forgotten the name of it - Bitter nut maybe?), again, like in a lot of Asia. But again, worse. Leaving the streets and gateways, entrances to pagodas and temples covered in a red stain.
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Breakfast number 1. |
We didn’t know what to expect from the breakfast in the morning. Almost all guesthouses in Burma provide breakfast, which is nice as it means there is one less thing to organise. It proved to start of on a great foot. Our first breakfast included an egg covered bread/sponge thing, fresh sweet mango, tea, coffee and little corn deep fried spring roll things.
Getting train tickets was a bit of a mission as everything is in Burmese. Eventually someone helped us find the right building and counter and a small fortune later we were set for the night train to Bagan (first class!). This is a newly restarted route so the train was quiet newish (a lot nicer then expected anyway), we had aircon and sleepers. It was a super bumpy ride but the countryside we got to see in the evening and the following morning was beautiful. Our first taste of fields with pagodas in the most remote areas. Beautiful, even if it was a 20 hour journey!
A couple of young guys, one a uni student came on to share our cabin for part of the journey. They spoke perfect English and were on their way home to their village of 5000 people. Before we all tried to sleep they told us this crack up story about how people came in to teach the village people about condoms and demonstrated by putting them on over pieces of bamboo. They were very un-keen to have to use them, but in the end people started to. They then started wondering why their wives were still getting pregnant when they had put the condoms over the bamboo outside their homes. The two guys telling this to us had a good laugh over it all.
Before we left Yangon we had one more must do. Shwedagon Paya (zedi, or stupa), breathtaking and vast, this pagoda is by far the most spectacular I have even seen. It is also the most famous on in South East Asia. There is so much gold from wall to wall. I had prepared (and have been wearing since) a long skirt and shoulder covering top for the visit. We were short of money, but a lovely lady agreed to show us round for a smaller fee. She did a fantastic job of explaining various buildings and guiding us in participating with ringing of the bell and paying respect at the statues of our birthdays. Here she took a small book to find the day of the week in which we were born. From there we visited the statues surrounding the main stupa corresponding to our birthday day. Spike was a dragon and I was a guinea pig. We bathed the animal, budda and a third god three times for each. We were a rare sight as this time of year, being the only foreigners at the huge temple. One lady even stopped us to take a photo with herself and her husband! It was about here I first started to feel like a celebrity of sorts. Stopped by people to comment on my ‘beauty’ (really they mean blonde hair), my outfit and just to say hello.