Turtle time

View from the room

That good old travel disappointment started to kick in again as we prepared for the expect mess up with our accommodation for the beach. We had booked four nights on Agoda for a resort a few months out from our trip and about a month after the booking we got an email saying that we couldn't have the first night, as they were full (in other words they sold rooms to Agoda that they didn't even have). So we rocked up to turtle bay resort (literally, the road was the worst thing ever, huge pot holes) expecting for them to send us to their sister hotel), however, to our relief they checked us into a great room overlooking the ocean as we had originally tried to book for the full four night, and relieved, we hit the beach for a beer.

For about 5 minutes. We thought it was all over, we were safely checked in to our room, nothing could go wrong now - until he manage came to see use. Turns out we did have to move (pissed us off too, after having told them the situation at check in) but luckily someone had  not turned up, so we just had to move into a downstairs room rather than down the road.

After the messy beginning with the hotel we tried to clear the slate and enjoy the isolation. The beach was empty, other than a way up a small fishing spot where the men pulled in nets for hours on end and surfed small boats in through the rough waves. There were only 7 rooms in the hotel and we often felt as if we were the only people around, we could see down the entire bay from our second room upstairs (from night two) and it was a truly an amazing place.


'Chef', as he became known, would come out after dinner each night and check we were happy with our meals. Luckily the food was pretty tasty overall, they even did a Sri Lankan breakfast for us on our last day as per our request (Sri Lankan breakfast is sooooo good - currys, hoppers and all sorts of tasty treats.... Including coconut sambol - fresh chilli, lime juice and coconut, all ground together).

Then there was the night the power went out, we had a SWARM of bugs attack the restaurant followed by dinner and wine by candle light. Free wine of course. The staff seemed very concerned that the guests were going to be upset by it all, but I think most of us seemed to have no worries. Given the isolation it is not surprising. It also gave us more time to chat with Fran and David, the semi-retired poms we had made acquaintances with. The only problem with having no power was it also meant no air con.... Not such an easy heat to sleep in, even with a few cocktails behind us.

Spike and Gayan looking down the lagoon

Temple

Our second to last day at Turtle Bay we went for a little look around the area with a local tuk tuk driver, Gayan. And he was fantastic. He was enthusiastic, cheerful and informative. We were told the story again of the young Sri Lankans who drink and fight, this time related to the fishermen (last time it was cricket fans). We had a look around the fishing village, there were so many boats, mainly the small ones with the outriggers and heaps of tangled nets balled up.

The real point of interest in the stop was where he took us down to the lagoon entrance. Earlier we had visited a pagoda, where Gayan had told us about his tsunami experience and here, in the lagoon, was where he was that day. It was there that he was with his friends when it hit and he was swept down the lagoon 1.5kms. Gayan and his friend were very very lucky to survive that day, and they lost 10 of their friends. He said how it had been in Sri Lanka post the Boxing Day tsunami, and the incredible amount of aid that got everyone back on their feet. Gayan had received a new tuk tuk from the Red Cross, which lead him to where he was today, a 32 year old local tuk tuk driver. It is hard to explain how it feels when you are told a story like that, he told it so matter of fact. For me this reflected how common his situation is around Tangalle. How normal it now seems. Everyone has a story of how they were effected.

He also took us up a rock in the bird sanctuary to look down the lagoon at the water buffalo and to a beautiful temple, where there was both Buddhist and Hindu symbols of worship. It was a beautiful temple, only, some of the painted walls were peeling badly and I don't know how long the images will be remembered. It is always a shame to see deterioration of such historic and special places.

It was sad to be leaving turtle bay, but we knew we had a treat in store once we got to colombo.

And back to colombo we went. A couple of hours in a car and then we were destined for another train ride.  Another frustrating travel moment, where our driver brought us train tickets, and after assuring us many times that he was getting the tickets we asked, for we ended up sweating the next four hours away on a smelly train towards colombo.

All that melted away instantly when we arrived at our hotel. We had a domo, our personal butler.... I think that gives a pretty good idea of the awesomeness that is this boutique hotel. They would make any cocktail you could want and the service was outstanding. I also had a massage here too, and it was much less invasive and nicer than the others we had had in Sri Lanka.

One room of our suite at Casa Colombo

Random fact - the cost of tuk tuk is (in nzd) about $5000, a small as car $17000, not cheap to seat up a driving business in Sri Lanka considering the average household only earns $350 per month.

The Sri Lankan president gave an elephant to Japanese.... Somehow I think he wants something.....

From the hills to the sand

It was a welcome relief to hit a resort for a night in Kandy. The temperatures were no long freezing (we had to get more warm clothes when in the highlands - I basically wore everything I had). As much as I love curry, a plate of French fries went down a treat. The view was amazing, and it was a shame we only had one night here. We looked out over the mountains from our free upgraded suite and shared our lovely large deck with the monkeys (giving spike a hell of a fright to open the curtains to one). It was time for some book time by the pool and a massage or two.

They had a lovely traditional ayrveda centre in the hotel so we nipped in for an afternoon massage and some reflexology the following morning. The massage was, interesting, I can't say it is a type of massage I would fully recommend. There was a bit of pinching invovled... The reflexology was great though.

Though we didn't do anything really, not even a trip to the Buddhas tooth relic, it was still a great night relaxing and been attended to. Finally I started reading my first book of the trip too!

The next afternoon we hit the evening train back to Colombo. We were a bit late booking and got the last two first class seats (well worth it for the air on etc), so we sat apart for this journey. Luckily it was only a bit over 2.5 hrs, so went by in a blink. We then needed to get down to Galle fort from Colombo. Our travel wits weren't the best and we ended up ripped off big time after negotiating the price with the "boss"of the taxi company before hand and the driver not following through during the journey. We were so tired, and it wasnt worth the fight over $15. All the same probably the most bitter taste Sri Lanka had left in our mouths to date.

Yet again though our faith was restored once we got to Galle and met Ravi. Another fantastic guesthouse owner. Him and his parents kept the place immaculate and he even remembered my pineapple allergy and served other fruits for breakfast. Ravi was cheerful, friendly and a great guy to chat with. Plus spike was pretty happy that he made a decent coffee too!

In Galle we took a trip down to Unawatuna beach, one which got badly hit during the Boxing Day tsunami and is now crawling with tourists. The beach loungers are so packed in front of the bars and restaurants that the water literally laps at the end of them. Nice beach though all the same, even if the waves were pretty rough for swimming. Our tuk tuk back was driven by an ex under 19 Sri Lankan cricket player - loved the sport and was stoaked to share all the big name players he had met while on the bench at the World Cup. The Sri Lankan players were practising to right by the road for the following days test match, which was cool and required a quick photo stop.

We followed this up with a sunset stroll around the fort walls. From here we could see the cricket stadium and coastline. It was so so hot, it was hard to get out and about in Galle. At least the shower at ravi's was pretty good as damn it was hot!!

The next morning we had double breakfasts - one at the guesthouse and another Sri Lankan style one down the road. Loaded up with food we headed into the stifling heat for a couple of hours of the first day of the Sri Lanka/Bangladesh cricket match. I had on spikes newly purchased sri lankan cricket tshirt, which attracted a bit attention, as it looked totally ridiculous over my dress. A whole nzd$2 we were in the galle cricket club grandstand, drinking 50c 400ml ginger beers in the crazy heat. It was so hot, we only lasted until they broke for lunch. Great views though, and it is neat to see how they get the locals invovled in helping out with things (e.g. they got a heap of guys to come into the stadium when it looked like rain to prepare to drag the tarps over the pitch). Next we found a car (and some welcome air con) and were off down the coast a couple of hours to the beach for our last few days in Sri Lanka.

It feels like we never left

It has been a hectic two months, with leaving Aussie, moving home and getting married. But in true spirit that didn't stop us getting our travel back on for a whirlwind of a honeymoon to Singapore and Sri Lanka.

A quick stop over in Singapore after a joyful as always (*soul destroying*) jetstar flight, meant for a fantastic night in a great new hotel near the airport. Nothing like a swim to wash away the Singaporean humidity. We squeezed in some great meals (milo on toast anyone?) and a trip to the bay gardens before skipping out for Sri Lanka. We will be back for a few more days on the way home.

It was about now I reassessed jetstar long hall... I think tiger short hall was worse. Even my knees touched the seat in front of me!! And the smell! Nightmare. Post smelly, clostraphobic flight we were greeted by what could be the most hospitable guesthouse host ever imaginable. He had our welcome drinks ready, got the other hosts all out of bed to meet us (including he elderly mother), had our train tickets ready for the next day and, for the first time for spike and I, a named welcome card at the airport.

On a side note, the duty free shops at the airport were nothing like I had ever seen, it felt more like a market street for washing machines and appliances, with many many little stores all named after their owners... Crazy.

The next morning It felt like the first stage of the trip was beginning as we boarded the train towards the hills, destined for Nuwara Eliya. And what a train it was. Although basic in amenities (as to be expected) the service was fantastic and the free wifi, a crazy unexpected joy for the 8 hour journey (meant to be a 5 hr trip I think).

Nuwara Eliya is the tea capital of Sri Lanka, and it turns out I really enjoy the light type of tea grown in these highlands. We took a trip out to the Mackwoods tea factory - this tea is only exported. The tea fields are never ending and beautiful. Perched on the steepest of slopes no land is wasted and the ladies work hard hand plucking then drying them. It is a very manual process still, even in this very large factory.

Like anywhere else in Asia there are a lot of tuk tuks, many are in great condition (better than SE Asia) and Sri Lankans take a lot of care in keeping them clean (along with their streets, houses etc). One thing I really like is they all seem to have some sort of slogan on the side of them. From funny and inspiration, "if you are in hell, keep going" to religious quotes. Always in English too.

It turns out that there is a "New Zealand" farm here in the highlands also, about 40 minutes out of town. Our guesthouse was very proud of the two dairy farms and very small factory. Although, other than the landscape (nz looking bush) it seemed to all run a bit differently from at home. Felt like they had put a bit of a show on, bring stock into the sheds, and I must admit some of it made me pretty emotional. Pleased we saw it and it wasn't all bad, but far from the most fun experience, nor much like the New Zealand way of doing it. We were quite disappointed there was no one there to ask questions of either. Needless to say we didn't come out that much more educated on dairying in Sri Lanka. On a positive note, at least it all ended with some fantastic Indian food for lunch on the way back to town.

The food at the guesthouse here has been awesome too, the host has taken to giving spike some of what they are eating, the 'bit of spice' meals... Needless to say we have some HOT food, although very very good. We were told that Sri Lankan food wasn't that hot before we came... I think I tend to disagree with this! Think chillies stuffing an omelette, or anything devilled (which unlike devilled in nz is very very hot with hunks of chilly and a bit of sweet). Not to say there isn't option with less of a kick. Just isn't the default here. Lucky we both love spice!

The weather has been pretty rough the last couple of days which has lead to a change in plans. Plus we are also still exhausted from the travelling. Adams peak trek has been bypassed for what I am sure will be a great, although very short, trip to Kandy. With a stop at another tea factory, blue fields for some more tea tasting on the way.